Questions on big dragster

Technical Assistance for Super Pro and other non-junior related Drag Racing Classes

Moderators: WILD BILL, livewire, 2kidsracin, Pool Man, chili man

Postby Pool Man » Fri Aug 30, 2013 1:18 pm

That confuses me. Are you concerned about the ET or the MPH. If you use the throttle stop you can lower ET but not MPH. Unless you throttle stop it a ton on the top end. I would be more concerned about MPH than I would Et. Unless you are referring to not opening the throttle all the way and not really using the throttle stop.
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Postby 03 busa » Fri Aug 30, 2013 1:29 pm

If I am trying to slow a 4.60 car down to 7.0 for testing purposes I think I will kill a good amount of mph and slowly let her get faster?? I am not talking the normal Super comp 2.5 second deal. I mean really killing the et. Again for testing and getting her used to the car in general. How hard it hit's off the line ect. I thought I would get both number down??
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Postby Pool Man » Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:20 pm

If you launch and sit there for 6 seconds all you have done is sit there for 6 seconds. You are still going to MPH just like you had not throttle stopped at all. We typically run 7.1? in the 1/4 mile at around 188 mph. If we decide to run in the 8.90 class we can knock off the 1.80 seconds and still run near or on the 188 mph mark. On the throttle stop all you are doing is killing et not mph.
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Postby 03 busa » Fri Aug 30, 2013 9:40 pm

Poolman, that makes sense. I thought while on the stop you were still "cruising" so you were making the track shorter so to speak for less mph? Either way I will be running the car the 1st couple of times so I atleast know how to slow it down and what change does what before I just stick her in the car. Thanks for the help and again I will know more on Sunday about what setup ect this thing has and we can be better educated as to what will work with our setup.
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Postby JDteam » Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:36 pm

Just to put things in perspective. Back in the mid 90's when I was racing, one fellow running super comp, (before throttle stop says) ran a mild 440 with a small holley carb and dual plane intake. He could run the number, (0.10 under) with that little over all engine and power. that kind of gives an idea of how much it would take to slow the car much. To get some actual numbers, you could use the formulas on the Wallace Racing web site.
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Postby Pool Man » Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:42 pm

You can throttle stop it the engine anywhere you want on the track. You can launch, run 1/8 mile and be on the throttle stop the rest of the way and it will kill et and mph. Only bad thing about that is it will not real good on the engine to be on the stop on the top end for any length of time. For obvious reasons. That is the way they use to throttle stop race. They would stop on the top end instead of the bottom. I am sure you guys will take it nice and slow. IMO that is a good way to go. I have seen some take their kid right out of a jr and put them into a low 7 second dragster and they do just fine. That was never my way of doing things. When we moved up I think Brian's car ran 5.20's in the 1/8th mile.
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Postby 03 busa » Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:58 pm

Picked the car up Yesterday in Darlington. It won Saturdays Top Dragster race!! That was cool but wasn't mine till sunday, LOL. Either way makes handing over the check over alittle easier. Now that it is home I can honestly say this is one of those what the heck was I thinking things.

I have yet to look at everything and dive right in to get a good look at everything but a few questions that I do have are. This thing does not have a starting line enhancer but does have an air throttle for super comp /throttle stop racing. Would it be easy to swap to the one that incorporates a staring line enhancer? 2nd I do not plan to use this car anytime in the near future. I want to finish the year focusing on JR's and allow myself time to gather things needed to go big dragster racing, get everyone involved acclimated to this thing. How often should I start it and warm it up to keep everything "happy"? Since it will be sitting in the garage for awhile. Thanks again for all your guys help on this. It is overwhelming and is going to take some getting use to and she will not drive the car until I am confident I know the car and she is as safe as I can possibly make her in the car.
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Postby livewire » Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:52 pm

You can use the air throttle stop as a starting line enhancer easily, look up a diagram for your delay box.
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Postby 03 busa » Fri Sep 06, 2013 8:27 am

^^^ I would like more info on this as I am trying to learn the air throttle system. The car has a single cylinder Biodo setup. How would I make a SLE system work and how does the air system work? I see the air pressurizes the cylinder to allow "full throttle" so to speak but once the cylinder releases pressure for the stop, how does it re-engage full throttle? Also I am assuming all the controls for this feature would run electronically thru the delay box? It has a K & R delay box with biondo singe cylinder.
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Postby livewire » Fri Sep 06, 2013 10:43 pm

Throttle Stops
A MUST HAVE FOR "CROSS-TALK"!Patented "PRO-STAGE" throttle actuators. Concept developed by Frank Hawley---allows total concentration and inproved consistency by enabling you to stage your car with the gas pedal to the floor while the engine remains at near idle. The throttle goes to wide open (up to the launch RPM) when your side of the tree starts---waiting until the "cross-over" times out. This eliminates destructive engine and converter damage due to excessive time at wide open throttle against the transbrake. The "PRO-STAGE II" doubles as a throttle stop by giving a second throttle position. Single cylinder can also be used as a throttle stop. Operation requires connection to the PRO-CUBE series delay boxes or equivalent

Here's a link for the wiring, with a single stage air stop if you run a jumper wire between pro stage and throttle stop connections you can use it as both, but you will just have the same rpm control for both, most people set it at idle or a couple hundred rpm above idle.


http://www.krperformance.com/media/Pro% ... v%2006.pdf
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Postby 03 busa » Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:50 pm

The Pro STage wire was an inch away from the Biondo valve just sitting there unhooked and zip tied to the frame?? Not sure why it wasn't used but I just unraveled a part of the wire and quick connected it and tried with the car not running but all electronics on and worked like a charm!! Took me all of 2 minutes once the panels were off the car
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Postby livewire » Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:57 pm

Good deal. Also can be used as a great safety device for a new driver, when Devin moved to the big dragster I had to throttle stop take the car to an idle just past the finish line just in case something happened.
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Postby 03 busa » Mon Sep 09, 2013 8:22 pm

That is a great idea, how long do you keep it set and how far time wise past your et do you set it for?
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Postby livewire » Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:18 pm

I set it .01 over and left it on for 45 seconds that was plenty of time to be off the track. Ran it that way for the 1st couple weeks.
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Postby 03 busa » Fri Sep 13, 2013 10:33 pm

How did you get it to 45 seconds. My timer only allows a max of 9.000. I wonder if I can move the decimal point for the timer off setting?
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Postby livewire » Sat Sep 14, 2013 9:51 am

That should have said 35 seconds, not sure which model you have, but some timers only go to 9.99 and others to 39.99 seconds.

And yes pay attention to where you decimal point is, when I was racing I worked on the car for 2 hrs before I figured out I had the decimal point in the wrong place. smiley-lol
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Postby 03 busa » Sat Sep 14, 2013 3:26 pm

I have the K and R delay box
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Postby 03 busa » Sat Sep 14, 2013 3:31 pm

I got it using the 1st timer only goes to 9.99 use 2nd timer for 39.99, thanks again.
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