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a few various questions** Update** and new issue



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andysperformance



Joined: 09 Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Location: Denver, PA




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:06 pm    Post subject: a few various questions** Update** and new issue Reply with quote

OK.. putting andys "new" car together and have a few issues... I have to use angle blocks, or the carb hits the tires.. so right now i have a set of 15* blocks on, with the studs in the front.most hole. with this setup the carb seems level, BUT now I cannot get a CC on the belt of 9" because if i move the engine up, the head hits the fuel tank (in the pic it is at 8-1/2") and I cannot remove the fuel cap.. I have a set of 8* blocks on the way, but im thinking now that they may put the carb at a lesser than level angle, and *may* still have the tank issue.. So what would you do? try the 8* plates , or use these and try something else??? Can the tank level be dropped lower on the deflector panel without effecting fuel flow? Does the shutoff valve need to be sitting higher than the fuel pump inlet? OR do they make a shorter belt and I can just run it as is? right now i have a Pitbull M-90..

***Disregard the messy wiring, that is how i got it and is all getting redone this weekend.****








Last edited by andysperformance on Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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drags3078



Joined: 04 Jan 2004
Posts: 4954
Location: cincinnati/dayton.... ohio




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how about taking a couple links out of the chain and sliding the whole engine plate assembly back while giving you some more clearence up front
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WILD BILL



Joined: 27 May 2007
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Location: BROOK PARK OHIO




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly what I was thinking. Either that or if you can move the tank to one of the outside edges of the firewall to allow you to fill the cell.

FWIW, I don't think it matters where the pump is in relation to the fuel petcock. My pump is mounted to a bracket on the head and is well above even the filler cap of the cell.

smiley-wave

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Pool Man



Joined: 25 Dec 2003
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Location: Gates, NC




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am with these guys. Take the motorplate back as far as you can. Looks like your carb is at a slight downward angle now. Would not hurt to use the 8* plates. Would run downhill just a bit. But i do not think it will hurt any at all.
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rthack



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 1160
Location: Minford,Ohio




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem with R J'S car moved the engine plate back as far it would go used the 8 deg and a smaller air filter to clear the tires carb was down hill a little added the deap bowl and the car ran fine
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3945JrDad



Joined: 22 Oct 2006
Posts: 1775
Location: Trenton, Ohio




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you may have a Motivational tubing back half.
We ran 8* plates when we had one. Worked great.
I agree, take links out. Plus it will get the weight of the motor over the rear tires which will help slightly with traction. Plus when the shock travels make sure it doesn't hit anything... both ways.

Just be careful that you can open the driven all the way and not hit the tires. You don't want the driven cutting into your tires at 78 MPH.

If you do move the fuel tank. Make sure the top of the tank is not above the top of the shoulder hoop. It is a rule, just not enforced... Yet.
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ppm



Joined: 30 Mar 2008
Posts: 239
Location: Warner Robins, Ga.




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with making the chain shorter. Also if you can find a shorter belt.
Another thing to look at is like WB said move the tank to the outside
edge. Or buy a aluim tall skinny tank. Thats what I have on mine.
My pump is mounted on top of the head so that wont make a difference.
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SKAD



Joined: 02 Mar 2007
Posts: 710
Location: Chesapeake Va




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Half Scale sells the tall skinny tank.
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Steve from Pa



Joined: 14 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats a mean looking ride there Bill.

I agree the 8 degree plates a few less links without getting the secondary into the tire, and you'll be very close.

...........all ya turn that clutch guard down (most have slots to adjust) to cover the secondary.... and take the header off turn it a half of turn (down) and put it back on.
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Steve from Pa



Joined: 14 Mar 2004
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Location: Punxsy




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One other option is look at a set of Jr Race cars angled motor plate clamps. They give you the angle but are lower that the angle plates. They will help with the clearance to the fire shield

http://www.jrracecar.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1325
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sizemore314



Joined: 07 Jun 2007
Posts: 119
Location: Lawrenceburg, Indiana




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same issue with our motivational tubing car and I had to do all of the above. I run the 15 degree angle plate and moved the motor plate back so that the secodary clutch would just clear the tires putting it on. And I also got one of the spun alum. fuel tanks from motivational and was able to mount it on the very out side edge of the fire wall. This will give you the clearance's you need.
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sizemore314



Joined: 07 Jun 2007
Posts: 119
Location: Lawrenceburg, Indiana




PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something else for you to think about. I also noticed that your car has the same suspension that ours had. Since our cars were made they reconfigured the geometry on the suspension link itsself and they sell a retro fit suspension link kit for 150$ that will help your car with hooking. It is all bolt on and can be found at the bottom of page 15 in their catalog. You can call motivational tubing and ask for Don and he will tell you what you need.
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andysperformance



Joined: 09 Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Location: Denver, PA




PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Everyone for the Help! to answer a few questions..
Looks like you may have a Motivational tubing back half"
It is a M/T 02 T/F pinnacle

Quote:
Just be careful that you can open the driven all the way and not hit the tires

when i squeeze the driven, it appears to move in towards the chassis, not the tire, so im guessing as long as i can get the belt on i would be fine???

Quote:
how about taking a couple links out of the chain and sliding the whole engine plate assembly back while giving you some more clearence up front

Will do, seems that is something i didnt think of.. Will go out searching for a 415 chain breaker today..

Quote:
Would not hurt to use the 8* plates

If the mail will ever get them here, Im going to give them a go.. seems like a few of you agree with this option..

Quote:
...........all ya turn that clutch guard down (most have slots to adjust) to cover the secondary.... and take the header off turn it a half of turn (down) and put it back on.

Thanks steve, and will do with the clutch guard, just didnt get around to it yet... I thought about flipping the pipe, but then it has an odd turn to the left.. just looks weird, so I may be shopping for a new pipe..

Again thanks eveyone for the help, Im still pretty lost with all this and trying to figure it out as I go.. Im sure I will wind up posting up some more questions before this is all together.. Thanks
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andysperformance



Joined: 09 Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Location: Denver, PA




PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, just an update..
8* plates just got here, so installed them, and also removed 2 links from the chain, and looks a whole lot better, plus i have a little more room at the fuel tank.. I can get the cap on and off now with no problems.. The clutch guard is giving me issues now though.. If i try to lower it and make it level, the outside edge hits the tire, It looks as if somone had welded an extension to it at one point.. So im curious if there would be any problems just having it cut off where the weld is, I will attach a pic in a few minutes. Does this look like it was added on, or was "factory"..
Also how much slack should the chain have? mine just has about a 1/4- 1/2"of slack at the moment.. if i put too much more in it, it hits the motorplate.. Should this be fine? Thanks


Last edited by andysperformance on Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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andysperformance



Joined: 09 Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Location: Denver, PA




PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some pics of the way it sits now, from my above post... the chain and motor plate clearance issue (looks like it has been ground down before for this issue), and the clutch guard.. Let me know what you would do.. Thanks I know the car looks dirty.. Embarassed Just want to get everthing right before i give it a detailed cleaning..





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Pool Man



Joined: 25 Dec 2003
Posts: 8249
Location: Gates, NC




PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is definately an add on to the clutch guard. It is not uncommon to see motorplates nothced for the chain. Some manufaturers make theirs that way. So, if you have to notch the plate to gain better clearance on the chain. Do it.
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3945JrDad



Joined: 22 Oct 2006
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Location: Trenton, Ohio




PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, when I upgraded our M/T to 415 I had to notch the back plate. Even if it clears now, I would notch it any way to give it a little more.
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Steve from Pa



Joined: 14 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep I'd cut that welded "extention" off of there if you could then turn it down pretty close to level on the top or whatever you want.
Yes I had to grind a notch out of our motor plate for chain clearance also.

I have yet to find one part that just "bolts on" one of these cars lol
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andysperformance



Joined: 09 Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Location: Denver, PA




PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve from Pa wrote:
Yep I'd cut that welded "extention" off of there if you could then turn it down pretty close to level on the top or whatever you want.
Yes I had to grind a notch out of our motor plate for chain clearance also.

I have yet to find one part that just "bolts on" one of these cars lol


Thanks.. took it all back apart this morning, and dropped the motor plate and clutch cover off at the machine shop.. I was gonna just cut and grind it myself, but figure it would look alot better if they did it.. Cool Hope to get it back together tomorrow..
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WILD BILL



Joined: 27 May 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you running NHRA? That part of the clutch guard was probably added to extened it past the driven center line so it would pass the rule.

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